ABA Boat Maintenance & Repair Questions and Responses
The information contained herein is
the opinion of ABA member and marine mechanic Tim Harrington of
Madison Marine Service, Harwich, Massachusetts. Tim is responding to
a question solely based on the information an ABA member provided. Neither
ABA, nor Tim Harrington, nor Madison Marine Service assume any
responsibility or liability for events that occur due to actions you
or others on your behalf take based on the information given in Tim's
response. You are proceeding at your own risk.
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I tried to replace my prop, and was unable to get it off. I remove a
bolt from the center of the cone and the cone will not come off. This
is a Volvo Penta 270 I/O engine. Do I need a pulley or some other
special tool to remove my prop?
With that Volvo drive you should be able to remove the prop. You did
not state if you have a dual prop system. In that case, would need the
inside prop nut wrench.
Your prop sounds
like it has been on for a while and is stuck from corrosion and from
the grease getting old. On occasion, I have had to carefully heat from
the outside and tap with a RUBBER mallet to remove a prop. You may be
able to soak it with penetration oil and tap it loose. Either way,
when you remove the nut and washer you should be able to pull it off.
Once off, you are
probably going to have to purchase a new hub and have a shop press it
in, or purchase new.
Q. I own a 1985 22' Sunrunner with a Mercruiser V6 motor. I have not
been able to obtain a copy of the original owners manual from
Sunrunner and do not know what the manufacturers specs for the prop
pitch are. Was wondering if you are able to get this information.
You do not need the owner's manual from the boat manufacturer. You
need to get together with a technician and go through the Merc prop
book and match the prop to your power. Then you can make choices on
the performance end for your boat.
Q. While winterizing
the outdrive this past weekend, I found that there was about 1/16 to
1/8 of an inch play stern to bow in the prop shaft. Is this acceptable
or do I have a problem? There are about 3090 hours on the unit and
about 30 hours on the upper unit.
With regards to your outdrive, I suggest checking to make sure your
thrust washer is in place and that all washers behind the nut are in
If you can pull your shaft in and out without the
prop installed it is indeed time for service. Also did you notice if
your gear oil came out clean? Did you have water penetration when you
serviced the lower unit in your winterization? That also will give you
a clue as to the condition of the seals, etc.
Q. I just purchased
the new engine (Honda 200) for my 2001, 23' Bay Hawk. It has a
four-bladed/21 pitch prop, 25-inch shaft. Problems- 1. the boat comes
out of the hole real slow, it takes 300 to 500 feet to get up. Max
rpm's-4000, after about 300 yds the boat starts porpoising without any
trim movement. Is there any thing I can do to help my situation?
I have rigged and installed Honda's for a dealership here on Cape Cod.
You're way below your rpm, especially on a brand new 200! You will
only get the performance of your engine's capability at max RPM by
matching the proper prop with your power! I am sure you can watch your
RPM change as you try different props.
My suggestion is to go to the dealer or direct to
the Honda web site,
www.honda-marine.com/hmframeset.htm for support
to find the correct pitch for your engine. You will find a great deal
of performance and speed change if you do so.
You have a great engine, fine tune her and it will
serve you a good many years.
Q. I was curious to
know why my boat pulls so hard to the right. I don't see a problem
with the prop. I just bought the boat and was curious what the problem
may be. I have heard of stabilizers and such but just not sure so I'm
asking the expert. Thanks for your help.
I have received your question regarding your problem with torque pull
on your boat. I see that you have 115 hp on a 15' boat. I hope that it
is equipped with seat belts!
Above your prop you will see a fin with a single
bolt. Mark the position of the trim tab plate and move it in a counter
direction to the prop rotational direction in small increments. This
trim tab is there to counter the torque that the prop creates in
rotation. Following this procedure should stabilize your pull problem.
Q. I bought this
boat used last year and I want to replace the propeller. It has the
number.48-78122-210 on it. How can I find out if this is the
recommended prop for this boat? Also can you tell me the pros and cons
on stainless steel vs. aluminum or composites? This boat is
inboard/outboard with a 4.3LX/V6
I received your question regarding your boat and prop from the
American Boating Association.
I tried to cross reference your prop based on the
information you gave me and also tried to see if your number
48-78122-210 was superceded. My research leads me to believe that the
prop was part of the Black Max series of Merc. The best thing to do is
to go to a local Merc dealer and match your prop to the outdrive. You
should find several to pick from for optimum performance. You want to
pick a pitch that allows you to operate close to your engine's maximum
rpm at full throttle. Also keep in mind that for every inch you go up
in pitch, you will decrease rpm by about 200 rpm. Conversely, if you
decrease in pitch by an inch your rpm will increase by about 200 rpm.
The second part of your question was about stainless
steel vs. aluminum vs. composites props. The decision is one that I
leave up to the boat owner. I tell my clients to consider the
environment that they will be boating in. You can get better
performance from a stainless steel prop, but a stainless steel prop is
also more expensive. One thing to keep in mind is that stainless steel
props are more apt not to give way upon impact, thus putting the
stress on your outdrive or lower unit! In this case, aluminum is a
little more forgiving and it is easily rehabbed. The amount of damage
caused to the mechanical ends of the drives can get expensive.
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